A Magical Mountainside Temple
by sarahcoggrave
Kyoto’s wealth of temples and shrines makes it difficult to choose a favourite.
Difficult, but not impossible – mine was, undoubtedly, the Kiyomizu-dera Temple.
Starting early I hiked up the steep, narrow roads, passing tiny cafes and tourist stalls – all closed in the early hours. Catching a glimpse of the first buildings – painted in that warm red that adorns so many of Japan’s sacred buildings, I excitedly climbed towards them for a better look.
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Unfortunately the day was cloudy, a misty grey hue tinged everything in sight – but nonetheless the views were spectacular. Kyoto all of a sudden seemed larger, when viewed from a more distant, elevated point…
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In spite of the hour, a few equally keen visitors were meandering around, as were some monks (?), who moved gracefully in and out of the inner temple areas, clothed in their swirling robes.
Some parts were closed for rennovation work – this was an ongoing theme throughout the trip; the scaffolded Acropolis in Athens, the hidden Four Rivers Fountain in Rome – picturesque history requires more maintenance (and money) than we might imagine, to prevent nature from consuming it.
Nonetheless, the closure of a single building was but a minor obstacle. Furthermore, there were several shrines on the site also, so plenty for a naive Western tourist like myself to gawp at!
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The most famous part of the temple complex – a vast, cliffside structure; with its towering stilts, and jutting platform, made me think of a huge treehouse, perching precariously on the edge of a precipace. Dark wooden beams, shadowy interiors and the gentle glow of lanterns, hinting at the beauty inside.
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Apparently visiting pilgrims could at one time take a dangerous plunge over the edge.
Survival of the 13m fall could secure the granting of a wish, although several died in attempting this.
To fully appreciate the scale of this epic veranda, it was necessary to take a path down into the nearby valley, offering fantastic opportunities to see the stilted temple in all its glory.
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There was also a solitary pagoda, gazing at the temple from a distance, surrounded by trees and muddy paths.
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The only part of the temple I wasn’t awfully keen on were the toilets. As I’ve said – toilets in Japan seem to veer between two extremes: the hyper-modern affairs with multiple obscure buttons and functions, and the traditional floor-based latrine.
Inevitably many of the toilets and shrines at temples and shrines fell under the latter.
But how can one possibly complain in such stunning surroundings?!
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Presumably this temple looks pleasing in any season – I’d love to see it in the snow, or surrounded by cherry blossoms…or autumn leaves. Indeed, out of all the countries I visited on my trip, Japan was the one I longed most to return to. And still do…
See also:
Tracing Other Places 
[…] first assisted me on the very first day I spent in the city, and after a heavenly morning at Kiyomizu-dera temple, I followed it south, in search of the renowned Fushimi Inari Shrine (Fushimi Inari […]
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[…] the morning having been spent under a grey, misty sky. After been overwhelmed by the beauty of the Kiyomizu-dera Temple and the Fushimi Inari Shrine, I was feeling rather temple-ed out (and shrine-ed out!) by the time I […]
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[…] world of shrines, temples and gardens. Kyoto was characterised more by the latter, including an incredible mountainside shrine. And then the magic of Osaka Castle. The polite, respectful people; the efficiency and the spotless […]
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