Tokyo: An Imperial Palace

by sarahcoggrave

As I’ve already mentioned, arriving in Japan was like stepping into another world – I was certainly starstruck when I arrived from the airport at Tokyo Station. The first place on my ‘to see’ list was only minutes away, and so it was with much excitement that I made my way to the Imperial Palace grounds.

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Surrounded by a moat and immaculate expanses of green grass (and trees), the complex stands in curious contrast to the silvery skyline of skyscrapers surrounding it; the busy, multi-lane roads. For me it was the first glance of historical Japanese architecture. Visitors cannot enter the palace itself, but the gardens are open for viewing.

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As I’ve mentioned, throngs of lycra-clad runners ran a colourful ring around the complex – perhaps some were in training for the marathon the next day – and naturally there were several visiting groups and tourists like myself. However, unlike anywhere I’ve ever visited before, I felt truly in the minority as a Westerner. Of course I encountered fellow Europeans (and Americans) during my time in Japan, but this occurred less frequently than I had ever expected. It was a little thrilling to be the odd one out.

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Entering the palace grounds I was warmly welcomed by the gentleman in the ticket booth. Politeness is by far more ubiquitous in Japan than in any other country I’ve ever visited. Of course there were very occasional exceptions, but it was wonderful to feel valued and respected as a visitor – this is by no means such a universal experience in other countries.

Thank goodness for Japan. But back to the gardens…

Visiting gardens before spring can often prove fruitless. Much of the Imperial Gardens were rather plain (mainly because many of their best assets only bloom in warmer weather), but there was more than enough beauty to admire there. And there were even some early cherry blossoms.

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Japanese gardens have (rightly, in my opinion) attracted great admiration from afar across the years. Ever since Japan opened its doors to the wider world in the Meiji Era, visitors from Britain and elsewhere have been anxious to appropriate their favourite parts of Japanese culture, whether than be ‘Japanning’ (application of a black laquer finish to objects) or in the recreation of the traditional garden – to name but a couple of examples.

Dozens of imitation Japanese gardens still exist – in the UK, the US and elsewhere, but none compare to the real thing.

Beyond the gardens I made a long circuit around the complex, admiring reflections in the moat, the avid runners who passed me, and even the cars on the road, for their distinctive, compact designs. However, a long flight combined with heavy bags and no sleep do not make for enthusiastic hiking, and before long I was desperate for something sugary and fattening.

And a large, strong, black coffee.

Much as I don’t particularly like Starbucks coffee, it was the first place I came to after my palace circuit, and I could see some spare seats – a rarity during busy times of day. Tokyo is very accommodating for the foreign visitor – menus are generally either graphically illustrated with models and pictures or include English translations. With some pointing, nodding and bowing (everybody bows) I managed to secure a warm chocolate chip scone and some much needed caffeine.

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After this brief injection of energy (and after being asked again if I was running the Tokyo Marathon the following day – so many Japanese people asked me this!) I was more than ready to embark on a lengthy walk across the city to look for shrines and find Shinjuku – the location of my capsule hotel.

See also:

Journey To The Far East

First Time In Japan: A Whole New World

Europe